The Catholic Pilgrim's Guide to Vézelay, France

Vézelay is a major Catholic pilgrimage site housing relics of St. Mary Magdalene. This UNESCO World Heritage basilica was a starting point for the Way of St. James.

Perched on an "eternal hill" (colline éternelle) rising majestically from the Burgundy countryside, Vézelay has drawn pilgrims for nearly a millennium. The village's narrow medieval streets climb steeply toward one of Christianity's most remarkable monuments—the Basilica of Saint Mary Magdalene, whose honey-colored stone seems to glow in the light that streams through its Romanesque arches. Here, beneath the extraordinary carved tympanum depicting Christ sending the apostles to evangelize the world, pilgrims have gathered since the eleventh century: first to venerate the relics of the Apostle to the Apostles, and later to begin the long journey to Santiago de Compostela. At its height in the twelfth century, this tiny hilltop settlement swelled to some 10,000 souls—an astonishing population for medieval Europe, sustained entirely by the faith of pilgrims. Kings and queens, saints and soldiers have walked these cobblestones: Saint Bernard of Clairvaux preached the Second Crusade here on Palm Sunday 1146, his voice ringing across the assembled thousands until the crowd cried out "Deus vult!" and tore their own garments to make crusading crosses. Richard the Lionheart and Philip Augustus met here in 1190 before departing on the Third Crusade. Saint Francis of Assisi chose this very hill to establish the first Franciscan house on French soil in 1217. Today, the Monastic Fraternities of Jerusalem—brothers and sisters in distinctive blue and white habits—keep the ancient rhythms of prayer in the basilica. Since establishing their community here in October 1993, they have maintained the cycle of liturgical hours that has marked time on this hill for over a thousand years. The sung Offices draw visitors into the choir stalls; the candles still burn in the crypt before Mary Magdalene's reliquary. The hill remains what it has been since the eleventh century—a place where the ordinary business of life gives way to something older.

📜 History & Spiritual Significance

The story of Vézelay begins in 860, when Count Girart de Roussillon and his wife Berthe donated this hilltop for the foundation of a Benedictine monastery. The site had known human presence since antiquity—the therapeutic mineral springs at nearby Les Fontaines Salées had drawn visitors since at least the third millennium BC—but it was the monks' claim to possess the relics of Mary Magdalene that would transform this remote Burgundian hill into one of Christendom's greatest pilgrimage centers. According to tradition, a monk named Badilon traveled to Provence in the ninth century to rescue the Magdalene's relics from Saracen raids threatening Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume. Whether this account is historical or pious legend, by the mid-eleventh century Abbot Geoffroy (1037–1052) had established a flourishing cult of Mary Magdalene at Vézelay. Miracles were reported. Chains brought by freed captives as votive offerings were melted down to forge the iron railings around the saint's altar. Pope Pascal II confirmed the relics' authenticity in 1103 and invited all of France to make the pilgrimage to Vézelay. The faithful came in their thousands. "All France," wrote the chronicler Hugh of Poitiers, "seems to go to the solemnities of the Magdalene." Construction of the magnificent basilica we see today began in 1096 under Abbot Artaud, continuing through the dedication by Pope Pascal II in 1104. The nave, completed around 1120–1140, represents Burgundian Romanesque art at its peak: its alternating bands of colored stone, the luminous quality of its light, and above all its extraordinary carved capitals depicting biblical scenes and moral allegories with vivid humanity. The great tympanum of the inner portal stands unique among Romanesque church portals. Where other churches carved Last Judgments, the sculptors of Vézelay carved the Pentecost—Christ enthroned in a mandorla, rays of divine light flowing from his hands to the apostles, commissioning them to carry the Gospel to all peoples of the earth. The surrounding archivolt depicts the nations awaiting conversion, including fantastical peoples from the edges of medieval geographical knowledge. The twelfth century marked Vézelay's golden age. On Palm Sunday, March 31, 1146, Saint Bernard of Clairvaux preached the Second Crusade before King Louis VII, Queen Eleanor of Aquitaine, and a vast multitude gathered on the hillside. A contemporary wrote that "his voice rang out across the meadow like a celestial organ." The crowd's enthusiasm was so overwhelming that Bernard ran out of prepared crosses and tore his own monastic habit to make more. In 1190, two kings—Richard the Lionheart of England and Philip Augustus of France—met here before departing together on the Third Crusade. Yet Vézelay's preeminence was not to last. In 1279, Charles II of Anjou announced the discovery of what he claimed were the true relics of Mary Magdalene at Saint-Maximin-la-Sainte-Baume in Provence. Pope Boniface VIII authenticated the Provençal relics, and pilgrims gradually shifted their devotion southward. Though Vézelay remained an important station on the road to Compostela, its glory days as Mary Magdalene's principal shrine were over. Centuries of decline followed. The abbey was secularized in 1538. During the Wars of Religion, Huguenots sacked the church in 1569, burning whatever relics remained. The French Revolution saw the ancient monastery buildings destroyed, leaving only the basilica, cloister, and dormitory standing. Vézelay's resurrection came in the nineteenth century through the vision of writer Prosper Mérimée, then Inspector of Historical Monuments, who recognized the basilica's artistic importance and commissioned the young architect Eugène Viollet-le-Duc to restore it. Working from 1840, Viollet-le-Duc rescued the building from imminent collapse, though his interventions remain debated by scholars. In 1876, Cardinal Bernadou, Archbishop of Sens, restored the pilgrimage by bringing from Sens a relic of Mary Magdalene that Pope Martin IV had given to that cathedral in 1281. The basilica was elevated to the status of minor basilica in 1920. In October 1993, the Monastic Fraternities of Jerusalem—founded in 1975 at Saint-Gervais in Paris to bring contemplative monastic life into the heart of cities—established a community at Vézelay. Today, brothers and sisters in their distinctive habits animate the liturgical life of the basilica, maintaining the ancient tradition of sung prayer and welcoming the thousands of pilgrims and visitors who continue to climb the eternal hill.

☩ Pilgrimage Sites in Vézelay

Two sacred sites anchor pilgrimage to the colline éternelle. The Basilica crowns the hilltop; the Franciscan hermitage of La Cordelle sits on the northern slope below, marking the spot where Bernard of Clairvaux preached the Second Crusade and where Saint Francis's friars established their first house in France.

Basilique Sainte-Marie-Madeleine (Basilica of Saint Mary Magdalene)

Local Name: Basilique Sainte-Marie-Madeleine Address: Place de la Basilique, 89450 Vézelay, France GPS Coordinates: 47.4664908, 3.7487466 Google Maps: View on Google Maps Website: basiliquedevezelay.org Dedication: Saint Mary Magdalene Historical Note: The present basilica was constructed between 1096 and 1150, replacing an earlier church destroyed by fire in 1120 that killed more than a thousand pilgrims gathered for the vigil of Saint Mary Magdalene's feast. The Romanesque nave, completed around 1140, features the distinctive alternating bands of limestone voussoirs that create the building's characteristic striped appearance. The Gothic choir was added in the late twelfth century as the Cistercian Gothic style spread through Burgundy. The massive narthex (1140–1150) serves as a grand vestibule, its own carved portals preparing pilgrims spiritually before they enter the sacred space. Spiritual Importance: The basilica's three tympana represent a complete program of sculptural theology. The great central tympanum depicts the Mission of the Apostles at Pentecost—a unique iconographic choice that emphasizes the universal call to conversion rather than divine judgment. The south tympanum shows the Nativity, while the north depicts the appearances of the Risen Christ. The ninety-nine historiated capitals throughout the nave and narthex form one of the most extensive sculptural programs of the Romanesque period, depicting scenes from the Bible, lives of saints, and moral allegories. In the crypt beneath the choir, pilgrims venerate relics of Saint Mary Magdalene in a modern reliquary. The relic—a piece of the saint's rib bone, gifted by the Dominican friars of Saint-Maximin—rests in an ornate container before which the faithful light candles and offer prayers. The crypt preserves portions of the original ninth-century structure. It was here that the relics were originally displayed before being moved to the high altar and later burned by Huguenots; the current reliquary was installed in 1876. The contrast between the soaring light of the nave above and the enclosed intimacy of the crypt below marks the pilgrim's journey from public proclamation to private devotion. The basilica's extraordinary relationship with light was rediscovered in 1976, when a Franciscan father noticed that at solar noon on the summer solstice, sunlight through the south clerestory windows casts a precise line of illuminated spots along the exact center of the nave floor—a remarkable feat of medieval astronomical architecture.

Ermitage de La Cordelle (Franciscan Hermitage)

Local Name: Ermitage de La Cordelle Address: Chemin de la Cordelle, 89450 Vézelay, France GPS Coordinates: 47.4698, 3.7432 Google Maps: View on Google Maps Website: franciscains.fr/projet-cordelle Dedication: Holy Cross (Chapelle Sainte-Croix) Historical Note: On March 31, 1146—Palm Sunday—Saint Bernard of Clairvaux preached the Second Crusade to a multitude too vast to fit inside the basilica. The sermon took place on this northern slope of the hill, and the following year the abbot of Vézelay built a small oratory on the spot, dedicated to the Holy Cross. The site had been a hermitage dedicated to Saint Fiacre, patron of gardeners. In 1217, Saint Francis of Assisi—who held France in high esteem and spoke passable French—sent Friar Pacifique to establish the first Franciscan foundation in France. The friars took over the hermitage and built a larger convent by 1233. The name "La Cordelle" derives from the cord (corde) of the Franciscan habit. Saint Louis visited several times, notably in 1248 and 1267, when he came to venerate Mary Magdalene's relics at the basilica above. The church collapsed in 1722 amid declining numbers; by 1785 only one friar remained. The Revolution saw the buildings sold and the chapel used as a barn. The Franciscans returned permanently in 1949. Today three friars maintain the hermitage, which receives some 30,000 visitors annually. A major restoration project, begun in 2024, aims for completion by October 4, 2026—the 800th anniversary of Saint Francis's death. Spiritual Importance: The Chapelle Sainte-Croix, classified as a historic monument in 1953, is Romanesque with Gothic raised vaults. A twelfth-century crypt lies beneath. The chapel remains open day and night for prayer. Each morning, friars bless pilgrims departing on the roads to Compostela and Assisi—up to fifteen per day during the pilgrimage season. The hermitage offers retreats for those seeking silence in the Franciscan tradition.

🕯️ Annual Feast Days & Celebrations

July 22 – Feast of Saint Mary Magdalene Basilique Sainte-Marie-Madeleine. The principal celebration of the year begins with a solemn procession carrying the reliquary of Saint Mary Magdalene from the town center up the steep main street to the basilica, accompanied by monks, nuns, clergy, and the faithful. A Pontifical Mass follows, with the bishop presiding and the Fraternities of Jerusalem providing the liturgical music. The celebration honors the "Apostle to the Apostles" who first proclaimed the Resurrection with the words "I have seen the Lord!"

🛏️ Where to Stay

Maisons d'accueil des Fraternités de Jérusalem (Pilgrim Houses) 📍 Address: Centre Sainte-Madeleine, 26 rue Saint-Pierre, 89450 Vézelay, France 🌐 Website: hotellerie-vezelay.fr Three guesthouses run by the Monastic Fraternities of Jerusalem: Maison Saint-Bernard, Centre Sainte-Madeleine, and Maison Béthanie. Simple accommodations for pilgrims, groups, and individuals seeking retreat. Pilgrim dormitories available March–October (no reservation, donations welcome—suggested €14/night, €4 breakfast). Meals prepared by the sisters available at Maison Saint-Bernard. Pilgrim blessing offered on morning of departure. Les Glycines Vézelay ⭐⭐ 📍 Address: Rue Saint-Pierre, 89450 Vézelay, France 🌐 Website: vezelay-glycines.com 🔗 Booking: vezelay-les-glycines on Booking.com Charming boutique hotel in a renovated 18th-century house just steps from the basilica. The name references the magnificent 200-year-old wisteria (glycine) adorning the facade—recently awarded the label of "remarkable tree of France." Modern rooms with rustic Burgundian character; sister property to SY-la terrasse. SY-la terrasse ⭐⭐ 📍 Address: 2 Place de la Basilique, 89450 Vézelay, France 🌐 Website: vezelay-laterrasse.com 🔗 Booking: sy-la-terrasse-vezelay on Booking.com Six rooms in a renovated 13th-century property with prime location facing the basilica. The restaurant serves Burgundian cuisine; the spacious terrace offers views of the basilica. Breakfast served at sister hotel Les Glycines. Hôtel de la Poste et du Lion d'Or ⭐⭐⭐⭐ 📍 Address: Place du Champ-de-Foire, 89450 Vézelay, France 🌐 Website: hplv-vezelay.com Historic 4-star coaching inn at the foot of the village hill, with 39 air-conditioned rooms. The gastronomic restaurant L'Éternel, overseen by chef Éric Balan, holds a Gault & Millau rating. Terraces and private gardens offer views over the village and the Morvan countryside. Les Deux Ponts 📍 Address: 1, Route de Vézelay, 89450 Pierre-Perthuis, France 🌐 Website: lesdeuxponts.com 🔗 Booking: restaurant-les-deux-ponts on Booking.com Family-run restaurant with rooms in the village of Pierre-Perthuis, 5.5 km from Vézelay on the edge of the Morvan Regional Park. Philippe and Marianne offer excellent regional cuisine prepared with passion; rooms feature parquet floors and views toward Vézelay. Set on the Way of Saint James near the Cure River.

🚗 Getting There

By Train: The nearest station is Sermizelles-Vézelay, served by TER regional trains from Paris-Bercy (approximately 2.5 hours). From the station, a shuttle bus runs twice daily to Vézelay (10 km, reservations required on weekends). Alternatively, Avallon station (15 km) offers more frequent connections, with onward travel by taxi. By Car: Vézelay is approximately 220 km (2.5 hours) south of Paris via the A6 motorway. Exit at Nitry (exit 21, 29 km to Vézelay) or Avallon (exit 22, 15 km to Vézelay). From Lyon, take the A6 north and exit at Avallon (270 km, about 2.5 hours). Parking throughout the village is metered; weekly passes available at parking meters (€12/week). By Air: The nearest major airports are Paris Charles de Gaulle (240 km) and Paris Orly (230 km). Lyon-Saint Exupéry airport is approximately 280 km south. Local Transport: The village is small and best explored on foot—indeed, the steep climb to the basilica is part of the pilgrimage experience. Taxis are available for longer distances:

  • Cyril Taxis, Vézelay: +33 3 86 33 19 06
  • Cathy Taxi, Vault de Lugny: +33 3 86 32 31 88

📚 Further Reading

Books:

  • C. E. Armi, Masons and Sculptors in Romanesque Burgundy: The New Aesthetic of Cluny III (Pennsylvania State University Press) – Scholarly study placing Vézelay in the context of Burgundian Romanesque art.
  • Emile Mâle, Religious Art in France: The Twelfth Century (Princeton University Press) – Classic study of medieval iconography with extensive treatment of Vézelay's sculptural program.
  • Marcel Aubert, Vézelay (Zodiaque) – Detailed photographic survey of the basilica in the acclaimed La Nuit des Temps series.

Articles & Online Resources:

🎥 Recommended Videos

🔗 Useful Links

🧭 Nearby Pilgrimage Destinations

Vézelay's location in Burgundy makes it an excellent base for exploring the region's rich Catholic heritage:

  • Nevers (70 km) – The Chapel of Saint Gildard preserves the incorrupt body of Saint Bernadette Soubirous, visionary of Lourdes, who died here in 1879.
  • Paray-le-Monial (120 km) – Sacred Heart sanctuary where Saint Margaret Mary Alacoque received Christ's revelations about devotion to His Sacred Heart.
  • Taizé (85 km) – Ecumenical monastic community founded by Brother Roger, drawing tens of thousands of young pilgrims annually.
  • Autun (90 km) – Cathedral of Saint-Lazare with its magnificent Romanesque Last Judgment tympanum by the sculptor Gislebertus.
  • Cluny (100 km) – Ruins of the once-greatest abbey church in Christendom, motherhouse of the order that shaped medieval European spirituality.

🥾 Pilgrim Routes

Vézelay stands at the head of one of the four great medieval pilgrimage routes through France to Santiago de Compostela: Via Lemovicensis (Way of Vézelay): Approximately 900 km from Vézelay to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port at the foot of the Pyrenees, continuing across Spain to Santiago. The route passes through the historic cities of Bourges or Nevers, Limoges, and Périgueux before crossing the Landes forest to join the other French routes at Ostabat. Pilgrims from northern and eastern Europe—from Germany, Poland, the Netherlands—traditionally gathered here before setting out together on the long journey south and west.

🪶 Closing Reflection

"I have seen the Lord!"

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— Saint Mary Magdalene, announcing the Resurrection to the apostles (John 20:18), The Holy Bible