The Catholic Pilgrim's Guide to Varese, Italy

In 1604, a Romite Ambrosiana hermit named Sister Maria Tecla Cid stood at the summit of a wooded mountain above Varese. She saw what did not yet exist: a sacred path rising from the plain below, marked by chapels depicting the fifteen mysteries of the Rosary. Within months, the Capuchin Father Giovanni Battista Aguggiari had recruited workers from markets in Como, Lugano, and Varese itself, paying them with coupons redeemable for bread, wine, and cheese. The mountain became a construction site. Today, pilgrims ascend the same two-kilometer cobblestone path that sixty million faithful have walked over four centuries. Fourteen baroque chapels guide them upward through chestnut forest—each containing life-size painted terracotta statues and frescoes depicting scenes from the Annunciation to the Coronation of Mary. At the summit waits the fifteenth mystery: the Sanctuary of Santa Maria del Monte, where a wooden Madonna dating to the fourth century presides above the high altar. In 2003, UNESCO inscribed the Sacro Monte di Varese among nine Sacred Mountains of Piedmont and Lombardy. Cardinal Federico Borromeo understood four centuries earlier what the designation confirmed: this mountain, made sacred by devotion, offers pilgrims a way to pray with their feet.

📜 History & Spiritual Significance

The Ambrosian Legend

Tradition holds that Saint Ambrose himself climbed this mountain in the fourth century after defeating the Arian heretics who had troubled Milan. At the summit, the bishop erected a small chapel and placed within it a wooden statue of the Madonna and Child. Believers hold it is the same image that presides over the sanctuary today. Archaeological evidence confirms a church stood here by the fifth or sixth century, replaced by a larger structure in the ninth or tenth. The first written record appears in 922, though the settlement clearly predates it.

The Romite Ambrosiane

In 1474, two women arrived at the mountain seeking a life of prayer and solitude. Blessed Caterina Moriggi of Pallanza and her companion Giuliana Puricelli established a small community of hermits following the Rule of Saint Augustine with Ambrosian constitutions. Pope Sixtus IV approved their foundation that same year. Caterina died on April 6, 1478; Giuliana on August 15, 1501. Their bodies remain conserved in the sanctuary's oratory. The Romite Ambrosiane—now an enclosed contemplative order—still pray the Ambrosian liturgy in the convent adjoining the church. The tradition spans more than five centuries unbroken.

The Counter-Reformation Vision

The Via Sacra owes its existence to Sister Maria Tecla Cid's inspiration and Cardinal Federico Borromeo's direction. After his 1612 pastoral visit, the Cardinal Archbishop of Milan issued detailed decrees governing every aspect of construction: iconographic program, placement of figures, theological content of each chapel. Giuseppe Bernascone, known as "Il Mancino," designed the entire complex. He conceived route, chapels, arches, and fountains as a unified whole—the most architecturally coherent of all the Sacred Mountains. Construction proceeded with remarkable speed. By 1623, thirteen of the fourteen chapels stood complete. Then the plague came. The epidemic of 1630-32 interrupted the work, which concluded only in 1698 with the final chapel. The artists who filled these spaces—Morazzone, Francesco Silva, the Prestinari brothers, Dionigi Bussola, Il Fiammenghino—created over three hundred painted terracotta figures. Their work remains among the finest examples of Counter-Reformation devotional art.

Modern Recognition

Pope Paul VI, as Archbishop of Milan, visited the sanctuary twelve times. He called it a privileged point of reference for Marian devotion. On November 2, 1984, Pope John Paul II knelt before the Madonna during a pastoral visit to Lombardy, praying that the faithful might learn from Mary "the necessity of meditation, of personal interior life, of prayer that God alone sees in secret." In 2021, the international astronomical community honored the site by naming asteroid 113671 "Sacromonte." It was discovered in 2002 at the Schiaparelli Observatory, visible from the sanctuary's terraces.

☩ Pilgrimage Sites in Varese

Via Sacra del Rosario

Sacred Way of the Rosary The pilgrimage begins at the Prima Cappella, where the Annunciation unfolds in painted terracotta: Gabriel descending, Mary turning from her book, the Holy Spirit hovering above. From here, the cobblestone path winds two kilometers through chestnut and oak forest, rising 230 meters past fourteen chapels depicting the Joyful, Sorrowful, and Glorious Mysteries. Each chapel functions as a theological stage set. Life-size figures freeze in sacred drama. Frescoed backgrounds create depth and atmosphere. Architectural frames direct the pilgrim's gaze. Visitors cannot enter but press close to iron grates, studying a centurion's expression, Mary's gesture. At dusk, pilgrims can illuminate each chapel by pressing a button. The mysteries emerge from darkness one by one. Address Via del Santuario, 21100 Varese GPS 45.8620, 8.8110 Map Google Maps Web sacrimonti.org

Santuario di Santa Maria del Monte

Sanctuary of Saint Mary of the Mountain The Via Sacra culminates at the fifteenth mystery: the sanctuary itself. Architect Bartolomeo Gadio rebuilt the church in 1472 in an unusual triconch layout with three naves and three apses. The baroque interior gleams with frescoes by Il Fiammenghino, Giovanni Paolo Ghianda, and the Lampugnani brothers. Above the high altar, within an elaborate gilded frame, the wooden statue of the Madonna and Child draws pilgrims who have climbed the mountain to kneel before her darkened face. The statue wears precious vestments changed according to the liturgical season. Votive offerings crowd the surrounding walls. Address Piazza Paolo VI, 21100 Varese GPS 45.8673, 8.8087 Map Google Maps Web sacromontedivarese.it

Cripta Romanica

Romanesque Crypt Beneath the sanctuary's presbytery lies a Romanesque crypt dating to approximately 1000 AD. Restoration in 2015 revealed fourteenth- and fifteenth-century frescoes hidden for centuries. The low vaulted space holds the cold. Dim light filters through narrow openings. Here pilgrims encounter the devotion of medieval predecessors who climbed this same mountain a thousand years ago.

Monastero delle Romite Ambrosiane

Monastery of the Ambrosian Hermitesses The enclosed convent adjoining the sanctuary has housed the Romite Ambrosiane since 1474. The nuns follow a contemplative life of prayer, study, and work—cultivating vegetables, operating a restoration workshop, preparing liturgical texts. They pray the Ambrosian liturgy unique to the Archdiocese of Milan: Lauds at 7:30 AM, Mass at 8:00 AM, Vespers at 6:00 PM. On Fridays at 7:00 PM, they gather for special prayers. The visiting room is open 9:30 AM–12:00 PM and 2:00–6:00 PM (closed Fridays and certain liturgical periods). The monastery also operates a Casa di Spiritualità offering simple accommodations for pilgrims seeking retreat. Address Piazza Paolo VI, 21100 Varese GPS 45.8673, 8.8087 Map Google Maps

Museo Baroffio e del Santuario

Baroffio Museum and Sanctuary Collection The oldest museum in Varese occupies rooms adjacent to the sanctuary. It houses the collection donated by Baron Giuseppe Baroffio Dall'Aglio alongside treasures from the sanctuary itself. Romanesque sculptures, illuminated codices, Sforza-period antependia, and fifteenth- through eighteenth-century paintings fill the galleries. A twentieth-century sacred art section includes works by Renato Guttuso, who in 1983 painted "Flight into Egypt" on the exterior of Chapel III. Address Via del Santuario, 21100 Varese GPS 45.8670, 8.8085 Map Google Maps Web museobaroffio.it

Casa Museo Lodovico Pogliaghi

Pogliaghi House Museum The Milanese artist and sculptor Lodovico Pogliaghi built this villa as his studio and home. He filled it with his own works and an eclectic collection of Greek, Roman, and Oriental antiquities. The highlight: a full-scale plaster model for the central door of Milan's Duomo, which Pogliaghi designed. Open weekends and special occasions, the museum offers spectacular views over the Lombardy plain from its terraces. Address Via Beata Giuliana 5, 21100 Varese GPS 45.8668, 8.8092 Map Google Maps Web casamuseopogliaghi.it

Borgo di Santa Maria del Monte

Village of Saint Mary of the Mountain The medieval village surrounding the sanctuary retains its character: covered passages, cobblestone lanes, houses built into the hillside. An underground passage connects the chapel trail to Piazzetta Monastero, where convent, sanctuary, and museum cluster together. Stendhal, visiting in the nineteenth century, described the view: "The grandiose mountains. Magnificent ensemble: at sunset, we saw seven lakes." The village functioned as an independent comune from 1859 to 1927 before becoming a frazione of Varese.

🕯️ Annual Feast Days & Celebrations

Assumption of Mary — August 15

The Solemnity of the Assumption draws pilgrims from across Lombardy. Many climb the Via Sacra in the cool hours before dawn, arriving at the summit for the principal Mass celebrated with full solemnity. The baroque interior fills with the faithful. Candles multiply before the Madonna's image. The mountain honors Mary's bodily assumption into heaven.

Feast of the Nativity of Mary — September 8

The sanctuary's traditional patronal feast celebrates Mary's birth with special liturgies and local celebrations. Pilgrims who time their visit for this date encounter the mountain community at its most festive, village and sanctuary united in honoring their ancient protectress.

First Saturday Devotions — Monthly

Throughout the year, the sanctuary observes First Saturday devotions in response to Our Lady of Fatima's requests. Pilgrims gather for confession, Mass, Rosary meditation, and the offering of reparation to Mary's Immaculate Heart.

🛏️ Where to Stay

Albergo Sacro Monte Varese ⭐⭐⭐⭐ — The oldest accommodation on the mountain. Eight rooms with views over Lake Varese and the surrounding peaks. The restaurant serves regional cuisine on a panoramic terrace. Website ∙ Reserve this hotel Hotel Colonne ⭐⭐⭐⭐ — A boutique hotel with ten individually decorated rooms, each featuring a private balcony with views over Lake Varese. The restaurant, led by chef Silvio Battistoni, has earned recognition for its creative Italian cuisine. Four red marble columns from Milan's historic Lazaretto mark the entrance—the hotel's founders transported them here when the funicular opened in 1909. Website ∙ Reserve this hotel Casa di Spiritualità (pilgrim accommodation) — Simple rooms within the Romite Ambrosiane monastery grounds for pilgrims seeking spiritual retreat. Contact the monastery directly for reservations (telephone: 0332-227.678, hours 7:00 AM–11:50 AM and 3:00–8:30 PM).

🚗 Getting There

By Air: Milan Malpensa Airport (MXP) lies 30 kilometers southwest, with direct TILO train connections to Varese. Milan Linate Airport serves European destinations with bus connections to Milan's central stations. By Train: From Milan Porta Garibaldi, Trenitalia regional trains reach Varese in approximately one hour. From Milan Cadorna, Trenord's suburban line serves Varese Nord station. Both stations connect to local buses ascending the mountain. By Bus: Line C (Bizzozero–Sacro Monte) climbs from Varese city center to the Prima Cappella and continues to the summit village. Tickets cost €1.60 with 90-minute validity. By Funicular: The Vellone–Sacro Monte funicular, built in 1909 and reopened in 2005, ascends from the lower parking area to the village in two minutes. It operates Thursday through Sunday and holidays, 10:00 AM–6:10 PM. Free with bus ticket; otherwise €1. By Car: From Milan, take the A8 "Milano-Laghi" motorway and exit at Varese Centro. Follow signs to Sacro Monte. Parking is available at Piazzale Pogliaghi near the sanctuary (free weekdays, paid on weekends and holidays) and at Piazzale Montanari near the Prima Cappella.

📚 Further Reading

Books: Symcox, Geoffrey. Jerusalem in the Alps: The Sacro Monte of Varallo and the Sanctuaries of North-Western Italy — Scholarly study of the Sacred Mountain tradition, covering Varese alongside Varallo and the other UNESCO sites. Viotto, Paola, Chiara Zangarini, and Eugenio Manghi. Sacro Monte di Varese — Chapel-by-chapel guide with color illustrations, covering the artistic and religious treasures. (Italian) Restelli, Franco, and Paola Viotto. Sacro Monte di Varese: Le cappelle, il santuario, il monastero, il borgo — Comprehensive photographic documentation across seasons, with detailed historical reconstruction. (Italian) Online Resources: Sacri Monti of Piedmont and Lombardy — Official UNESCO site with visitor information, history, and photo galleries. (Sacri Monti) Prayer at the Sanctuary of Sacro Monte di Varese — Pope John Paul II's 1984 address and prayer before the Madonna. (Vatican.va, Italian)

🎥 Recommended Videos

Sacri Monti di Piemonte e Lombardia by TV2000 — Documentary series exploring the nine UNESCO Sacred Mountains, including the Varese episode featuring the chapels, sanctuary, and artistic heritage. (Italian)

🔗 Useful Links

Sacro Monte di Varese Official Site — Sanctuary website with Mass times, events, and visitor information. UNESCO Sacri Monti — World Heritage information and resources for all nine Sacred Mountains. Archdiocese of Milan — Diocesan resources and parish information. Varese Tourism — Regional tourism guide with accommodation, attractions, and practical information.

🧭 Nearby Pilgrimage Destinations

Milan (55 km) — The Duomo houses relics of Saint Charles Borromeo, who frequently climbed the Sacro Monte di Varese for retreat. Sant'Ambrogio preserves the body of Saint Ambrose, legendary founder of the Varese sanctuary. Orta San Giulio (65 km) — Another UNESCO Sacred Mountain dedicated to Saint Francis of Assisi, with twenty chapels overlooking the island basilica of San Giulio. Ghiffa (50 km) — The Sacro Monte della Santissima Trinità offers three chapels and a sanctuary above Lake Maggiore, the smallest of the nine UNESCO Sacred Mountains. Oropa (90 km) — The great Marian sanctuary of Piedmont, with its own Sacred Mountain of twelve chapels and a Black Madonna venerated since the fourth century.

🪶 Closing Reflection

"O Maria, teach us recollection, interiority; give us the disposition to listen to good inspirations and the word of God; teach us the necessity of meditation, of personal interior life, of prayer that God alone sees in secret."

— Pope John Paul II, Prayer at Sacro Monte di Varese, November 2, 1984