The Catholic Pilgrim's Guide to Ars, France

Home to the incorrupt body of St. John Vianney, patron saint of parish priests, whose 41 years of ministry transformed this humble village into France's spiritual heart.

In 1818, a young priest deemed barely fit for ordination arrived at this obscure French village of just 230 souls. Over the next forty-one years, through tireless hours in the confessional and a life of heroic penance, Jean-Marie Vianney transformed Ars into one of the most remarkable pilgrimage sites in Catholic history. Today, over 450,000 pilgrims annually visit this humble village in the Ain department of eastern France to venerate the incorrupt body of the patron saint of parish priests. Set amid the gentle Dombes plateau, surrounded by hundreds of small lakes and overlooking the hills of the Beaujolais wine region, Ars-sur-Formans (pronounced "Ar") lies just 35 kilometers north of Lyon. The village remains small and peaceful, much as it was when Father Vianney first asked a young shepherd boy named Antoine Givre for directions. "You showed me the way to Ars," the priest famously told the boy, "I will show you the path to Heaven." A bronze sculpture at the village entrance commemorates this encounter. For pilgrims seeking an encounter with profound holiness in a place utterly transformed by one man's fidelity to God, Ars offers an experience unlike any other.

📜 History & Spiritual Significance

The story of Ars is inseparable from the story of Jean-Marie Vianney. Born on May 8, 1786, in nearby Dardilly, young John grew up during the French Revolution's persecution of the Church. He made his First Communion secretly, in a barn, before a priest who had refused to swear allegiance to the revolutionary government. Though he felt called to the priesthood at seventeen, his path was arduous—academically struggling, particularly with Latin, he was nearly dismissed from seminary. Only through the patient tutoring of Father Charles Balley did he finally achieve ordination on August 13, 1815, at age twenty-nine. Three years later, his superiors assigned him to Ars, a village where faith had grown cold and taverns outnumbered churches in popularity. What followed was one of the most remarkable pastoral transformations in Church history. Through his austere life of prayer, fasting, and penance—combined with powerful preaching and an extraordinary gift for reading souls—Vianney gradually converted his entire parish. He restored the village church, founded "La Providence" (an orphanage for girls), and dedicated himself utterly to the salvation of souls. Word of the holy priest spread throughout France. By the 1830s, an average of 300 pilgrims arrived daily seeking confession and spiritual direction. In his final year, over 100,000 pilgrims came to Ars. The CurĂ© spent up to sixteen hours daily in the confessional during summer months, guiding countless souls back to God with supernatural insight and tender compassion. In time, Ars became known as "the great hospital of souls." The CurĂ© of Ars was also known for his battles with the devil, whom he called "le Grappin" (the hook). For years, demonic disturbances plagued his rectory—furniture overturned, curtains set ablaze, terrifying noises throughout the night. Vianney bore these attacks with remarkable peace, even joking that when the devil was particularly active, it meant a great sinner would come to confession the next day. One famous incident saw his bed set on fire—pilgrims can still view this charred bed in his preserved home. Despite his fame, Vianney remained profoundly humble. He attempted to flee Ars four times, yearning for the contemplative life, but always returned when his parishioners found him. John Vianney died on August 4, 1859, exhausted from a lifetime of labor for souls. Over 6,000 people attended his funeral. Pope Pius X beatified him in 1905, and Pope Pius XI canonized him in 1925, proclaiming him patron saint of parish priests in 1929. In 2009, Pope Benedict XVI inaugurated a Year for Priests on the 150th anniversary of his death, holding up the CurĂ© of Ars as the model for all priests.

☩ Pilgrimage Sites in Ars

The sanctuary complex is compact and walkable, centered around the basilica that dominates the village with its distinctive green roof, white walls adorned with sculptures, and brick bell tower.

1. Basilica of St. Sixtus (Basilique Saint-Sixte)

Local Name (French): Basilique d'Ars / Basilique du CurĂ© d'Ars Dedication: St. Sixtus; St. Philomena; St. John Mary Vianney Website: arsnet.org Description / Highlights: The Basilica of Ars, built between 1862 and 1910 by the Lyon architect Pierre Bossan (who also designed Lyon's famous Basilica of FourviĂšre) and his successor Sainte-Marie-Perrin, extends from the original 12th-century parish church where Father Vianney preached. The Byzantine-style painted ceiling depicts the life of St. Philomena, to whom Vianney had particular devotion—he attributed his own miraculous cure in 1843 to her intercession and erected a chapel in her honor. The heart of pilgrimage here is the glass reliquary above the main altar containing the incorrupt body of St. John Vianney. His body was exhumed at the beginning of the 20th century and found remarkably preserved; his face is now coated with a wax mask. Pilgrims often spend extended time in prayer before these sacred remains, moved by the proximity to one whose holiness transformed countless lives. The basilica offers daily Masses, confessions, Adoration of the Blessed Sacrament, and the Rosary. Address: Rue Jean Marie Vianney, 01480 Ars-sur-Formans, France GPS Coordinates: 45.9923763, 4.82299 Google Maps: View Map

2. Shrine of the CurĂ©'s Heart (Chapelle du CƓur)

Local Name (French): Chapelle du CƓur du CurĂ© d'Ars Dedication: The Sacred Heart of St. John Vianney Description / Highlights: In a separate chapel built in 1932, pilgrims can venerate perhaps the most symbolic relic of the CurĂ© of Ars—his actual heart, preserved in a golden reliquary. This heart, which beat with such love for God and souls that Vianney spent decades in self-sacrificing ministry, holds profound meaning for visitors. As the current rector notes, "It is not a finger or an eye; it is truly the heart of the CurĂ© d'Ars filled with love, the heart of a pastor filled with love for all his parishioners." Many pilgrims find this intimate chapel the most moving part of their visit. Address: Adjacent to the basilica, Rue Jean Marie Vianney, 01480 Ars-sur-Formans, France GPS Coordinates: 45.9923763, 4.82299 Google Maps: View Map

3. The Curé's House (La Maison du Curé)

Local Name (French): PresbytĂšre du CurĂ© d'Ars Description / Highlights: Preserved exactly as Father Vianney left it, his modest home offers an intimate glimpse into the daily life of a saint. Pilgrims can see his simple bedroom with the famous bed set on fire by the devil, his breviary and rosary, his small library, and other personal effects. The austerity of his living conditions—eating little, sleeping on a hard bed, wearing worn-out clothes—testifies to his heroic mortification for the conversion of sinners. "I give sinners a small penance," he once told a fellow priest, "and the rest I do in their place." Address: Rue Jean Marie Vianney, 01480 Ars-sur-Formans, France GPS Coordinates: 45.9923763, 4.82299 Google Maps: View Map

4. La Providence

Local Name (French): La Providence Description / Highlights: This orphanage for girls, founded by Father Vianney in 1824, represented his practical charity alongside his spiritual ministry. Despite managing significant donations from wealthy pilgrims, he gave everything away to the poor, his church, and this home for abandoned children. Today, the building forms part of the pilgrimage complex and can be visited. Address: Ars-sur-Formans, France GPS Coordinates: 45.9923763, 4.82299 Google Maps: View Map

5. Underground Basilica (Basilique Souterraine)

Description / Highlights: Built in the 1960s to accommodate large groups of pilgrims, this modern underground church provides space for group Masses and large gatherings. While less historically evocative than the main basilica, it serves an essential practical purpose for pilgrimage groups.

6. Grévin Wax Museum (Musée de Cires)

Description / Highlights: This museum features 35 life-size wax figures depicting scenes from the life of the Curé of Ars, helping pilgrims visualize his story in vivid detail. It provides an accessible introduction to his life, particularly for families with children.

đŸ•Żïž Annual Feast Days & Celebrations

August 4 – Feast of St. John Vianney Basilica of Ars. The principal celebration of the year, marking the anniversary of the CurĂ©'s death in 1859. The day features Lauds, solemn Mass, procession through the village, Adoration of the Blessed Sacrament, Vespers, and a spiritual music concert in the evening. Pilgrims from around the world gather to honor the patron saint of parish priests. Second Sunday of February – Feast of the Arrival of the Saint Monument de la Rencontre. This celebration recalls Father Vianney's arrival in Ars in 1818, commemorated at the bronze sculpture depicting his meeting with the shepherd boy Antoine Givre. Features solemn Mass, procession, Adoration, and Vespers with catechesis. December 8 – Feast of the Immaculate Conception Throughout Ars-sur-Formans. The village is decorated with hundreds of lights in a tradition echoing Lyon's famous FĂȘte des LumiĂšres. A light show featuring projections on the basilica and candles throughout the village creates a magical atmosphere of faith.

đŸ›ïž Where to Stay

Wellin'Ars 📍 Address: Ars-sur-Formans, France 🔗 Booking: Book on Booking.com Accommodation in the heart of Ars-sur-Formans, convenient for pilgrims visiting the sanctuary. ChĂąteau d'Ars 📍 Address: Ars-sur-Formans, France 🌐 Website: en.ars-trevoux.com Character-filled residence in a 9th-century castle with 2.5-hectare park, 18th-century chapel, and tastefully restored apartment accommodating 4 people. Just 30 minutes from Lyon. Best Western Plus Hotel Plaisance ⭐⭐⭐ 📍 Address: 96 Avenue de la LibĂ©ration, 69400 Villefranche-sur-SaĂŽne, France 🔗 Booking: Book on Booking.com Located in Villefranche-sur-SaĂŽne's city center, about 10 km from Ars. Comfortable three-star hotel offering an ideal base to explore both the sanctuary and the Beaujolais region. Campanile Villefranche-Sur-SaĂŽne ⭐⭐⭐ 📍 Address: Villefranche-sur-SaĂŽne, France 🔗 Booking: Book on Booking.com Budget-friendly option with free WiFi and terrace, a 5-minute drive from Villefranche's city center and approximately 10 km from Ars.

🚗 Getting There

By Air: The nearest major airport is Lyon-Saint Exupéry Airport (LYS), approximately 50 km from Ars-sur-Formans. From the airport, rent a car or take a combination of train/bus to reach the village. By Train: From Paris, take the TGV to Lyon Part-Dieu (approximately 2 hours), then transfer to a regional train to Villefranche-sur-SaÎne (about 25 minutes). From Villefranche, take a local bus or taxi to Ars-sur-Formans (approximately 10 km). Alternatively, a direct regional train from Lyon can take about 4 hours without changes. By Bus: From Villefranche-sur-SaÎne, local bus services connect to Ars-sur-Formans. The journey from Lyon via Villefranche by public transport takes approximately 1.5 hours each way. By Car: From Lyon (35 km south), take the A6 motorway north, exiting toward Villefranche-sur-SaÎne, then follow local roads to Ars-sur-Formans. The drive takes approximately 45 minutes. Free parking is available in the village. Walking: For a more penitential approach, some pilgrims walk the 4.1 km from Villefranche-sur-SaÎne to Ars along the main road.

📚 Further Reading

Books:

  • AbbĂ© François Trochu, The CurĂ© d'Ars: St. Jean-Marie-Baptiste Vianney (Amazon) – The definitive biography, originally published in 1927, offering comprehensive detail on the saint's life.
  • Fr. George W. Rutler, Cure D'Ars Today: St. John Vianney (Amazon) – Written by a New York parish priest and acknowledged Vianney expert for the 2009 Year for Priests.
  • Mary Fabyan Windeatt, The Cure of Ars: The Story of St. John Vianney, Patron Saint of Parish Priests (Amazon) – Accessible biography ideal for young readers and families.

Articles & Online Resources:

đŸŽ„ Recommended Videos

  • The CurĂ© of Ars by EWTN – Original docudrama presenting the life, priestly ministry, and spirituality of St. John Vianney, filmed on location in Ars. Premiered May 31, 2025, on the centenary of his canonization.
  • Saint John Vianney: Confessor of Souls by EWTN – Docudrama version with expert interviews offering additional perspective on the saint's life.
  • Saint John Vianney by FORMED – Discussion on the life and witness of the CurĂ© d'Ars with Dr. Ben Akers and Taylor Kemp.

🔗 Useful Links

🧭 Nearby Pilgrimage Destinations

  • Lyon (35 km south) – Basilica of Notre-Dame de FourviĂšre and the ancient primatial cathedral
  • Paray-le-Monial (140 km northwest) – Sanctuary of the Sacred Heart apparitions to St. Margaret Mary Alacoque
  • Nevers (230 km west) – Convent of Saint-Gildard with the incorrupt body of St. Bernadette Soubirous
  • La Salette (180 km southeast) – Mountain sanctuary of Our Lady of La Salette
  • Dardilly (30 km south) – Birthplace of St. John Vianney, where his childhood home can be visited

đŸȘ¶ Closing Reflection

"Dear priests, Christ is counting on you. In the footsteps of the Curé of Ars, let yourselves be enthralled by him. In this way you too will be, for the world in our time, heralds of hope, reconciliation and peace!"

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— Pope Benedict XVI, Letter Proclaiming a Year for Priests, June 16, 2009